Rear Sprockets:

Attention must be given to torque specifications and torque sequence of the rear sprocket bolts. Consult your owner’s manual for further information. Failure to adhere to installation instructions could lead to catastrophic and/or damaging failure of one or more parts of the chain drive system. 

Dirt Tricks advises the following: 

1. Rear sprocket bolts must be cleaned thoroughly of any preexisting residue. Some manufacturers further suggest that the rear sprocket nuts and bolts not be re-used.

2. Make sure all contacting surfaces are clean of any debris and/or residue, and dry. In the case of the rear sprocket, this would be the sprocket and the part of the rear hub that touches the sprocket.  

Dirt Tricks does suggest the use of red grade Loc-Tite. Follow the instructions label on the Loc-Tite to insure its expected (and desired) performance. Keep in mind that the temperature of the parts being assembled may effect the time needed for the Loc-Tite to fully cure.

Tighten the rear sprocket nuts to the proper torque specification and sequence listed in your motorcycle owner’s manual. (this is usually 30 ft-pounds or 40 N-M) The torque needed may be different from bike to bike depending on individual manufacturer’s specifications. Wait for the Loc-Tite to fully cure before riding your motorcycle. We also strongly recommend the use of Torque Seal or other marking agents to mark your bolts. Mark your nut to the surface it meets and let dry. This is a very easy and quick way to visibly check your bolts during your pre-ride bike inspection. This should be done before EVERY ride.

  Front Sprockets:

 The installation of a countershaft Ironman Sprocket is, again, virtually identical to the installation of an OEM front sprocket. Attention must be given to proper torque and the replacement of a countershaft sprocket. Some manufacturers advise that the counter shaft sprocket retainer bolt(s) and/or retainer plates (and/or washers) are not to be re-used. Their service advice should be adhered to. All contacting surfaces must be clean and free of all oils and any debris. Consult your owner’s manual for the definitive installation information.

Regina Chain:

 Dirt Tricks only sells the 120 link Regina RX3 non-O-ring chains ,ORN O-ring chains and ZRH Z-Ring chains. The chain will very likely have to be re-sized in order to fit on the bike. This is not a problem (not like having a chain that is already too short.) Furthermore, Dirt Tricks suggests that a qualified motorcycle technician perform the chain sizing and installation.

 Here are Regina’s Instructions that come packaged with the chain:

 The Chain you have purchased includes a Regina Type 42 connecting link. This link is designed to provide nearly the same fatigue life as the rivet type connector. 

By altering key dimensions this link utilizes the press fit of the outer plate to reduce the damage effects shock loads. The pin ends have a special ridge to help prevent the over travel of the plate during installation.

  Refer to the rear of the Regina box for general chain installation instructions.

  If a dealer with the proper installation tools is not available, there are techniques for the home installer to press on the outer plate of the Type 42 connector. For example:

1. A C-Clamp and spaces (such as a 5/15’ or 10mm nut) can be used to “walk” the plate on. Gradually press each side the plate, slightly lowering each end until the plate is just to the point where the spring clip can be fully seated in the grooves. See Figure 1 below.

Note: Always install the spring clip with the closed end toward the direction of travel. 

Carefully locate the spring clip in the grooves of the pin. Place the center of the clip on a pin, then push on with a pair of pliers. Do not bend the legs of the clip to install on pins. 

Do not use a connector from another manufacturer. This may result in rapid wear or failure.

Additional Tips From Dirt Tricks     

1. Take care to properly measure out the number of links that you will need in order to have the proper length chain. It is helpful to have the old chain present when doing this, especially if the rider liked the length of the old chain. Do not be hasty and make the chain too short.
   

2. Removal of a link: Dirt Tricks suggests using a chain breaker for this step. Observe that the chain, without the master-link installed, has two male ends. These male ends are then joined together at the master-link. Once the desired chain length has been chosen, use the chain breaker to drive the pin through the link to the other side of the link. Make sure that the chain breaker is driving the pin from the proper side of the link. That is: the chain breaker needs to be on the side of the link that connects to the part of the chain that will actually be used on the bike.
   

3. Installation of the master-link: When installing the Regina Master-link, make sure all of the linking parts do not have any foreign debris present. Be sure to apply (as much as can fit within the O-Rings as possible) the white lubricant that comes packaged with the chain. See the packaged Regina Instructions. Please note: pressing the plate too far down can damage the master-link O-Rings. Install the master link clip with the closed end facing the direction of chain travel. Installing the clip facing the wrong direction will result in losing the clip, and then possibly the master-link.
   

4. Chain Tension: It is important that the chain have proper free-play. Free-play requirements will vary from bike to bike, and will also vary with different sprocket sizes. Over-tightening of the chain has an adverse effect on the travel of the rear suspension and can lead to damaging or catastrophic failure of the chain drive system. The only point in the movement of a bikes rear suspension that the chain’s slack should be minimal is when the suspension is at its farthest reach. That is: When the center of the countershaft is lined up with the center of the rear axle, through the center of the swing-arm pivot bolt. That is the farthest distance that the chain will have to accommodate within the full travel of the rear suspension.
   

5. Chain Lubrication: (for non-o ring chains) Regina suggests using SAE 80-90 weight gear oil to lubricate the chain. It is easiest to soak the chain in a bath of oil, then soak up the excess with a clean cloth when removed from the bath. Regina suggests applying gear oil to the chain with a paintbrush. Avoid using chain lubricants that are sticky. They can attract massive amounts of abrasive dirt and other debris to the chain drive system. For ORN and ZRH chains, the best advise is keep them clean and use Tri-Flow or WD-40 to prevent rusting after washing.

If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to contact us.

775-783-1750 or sales@dirttricks.com

(8:00 AM - 4:00 PM west coast M-F)